HEERA ALAYA

THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
discovering rich territories

By Heera Alaya
January 1st, 2018

In the enchanting region of Ladakh, India, nature’s brilliance transitions smoothly—from the stars that dazzle in the night sky to the rocky crags that sparkle with emerald, amethyst, and ochre hues under the sunlight. As I navigated the winding roads, I was captivated by the ever-changing landscape. Within moments, the sun-blasted terrain was blanketed by fluffy clouds, which parted momentarily to offer a glimpse of distant snow-capped peaks, only to close again and bathe the area in blinding light.

Nestled against the canvas of Ladakh’s arresting terrain lies the Students’ Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh [SECMOL], a school single-mindedly engineered by Sonam Wangchuk’s vision. This second-to-none location, bracketed between mountains and the Indus River, teems with trees, creating an inviting atmosphere. Here, I was greeted by Chokrap, a young student who insisted I settle in with a cup of tea. Chokrap’s ownership and warmth set the stage for a sumptuous experience.

At the SECMOL campus, self-motivated children actively engage with their environment, taking pride in their surroundings. For example, Cozam and Gyatzo find joy in the seemingly mundane task of wiping dust off the leaves. In this nurturing atmosphere, students are encouraged to express their feelings and thoughts, particularly during dinnertime. One student pointed out a quote by the late American activist and First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt: “Great minds discuss ideas; average minds discuss events; small minds discuss people,” highlighting that, in this setting, the pursuit of higher thinking is deeply ingrained.

The school embodies a sense of well-ordered richness, characterised by motivating messages, neatly stacked utensils, colour-coded grain shafts, and minimalist classrooms. The children did not need to be coaxed into attending their classes; at the sound of the bell, their sense of ownership propelled them to scurry to their lessons. Remarkably, the children were not shouting in a disorderly fashion, which is often the norm among Indian children (and adults), particularly those who are educated, affluent, and have returned from abroad. Every thoughtful detail—on the SECMOL campus and among the students—reflects the vision of the enlightened Sonam Wangchuk.

The natural flow of colours, textures, and aesthetics remains harmonious, seamlessly connecting the terrain with living spaces, classrooms with cowsheds.

In this tranquil landscape, the gentle breeze carries only the delightful sounds of chirping birds, children’s laughter, and ringing bells. The musical “julay’s” [hello and thank you in Ladakhi] punctuates the symphony of nature, and life’s elegance effortlessly unifies with Sonam Wangchuk and the children. Observing Mr Wangchuk—whose visceral connection is as evident as his intellect—engage with the children is a true pleasure; their camaraderie blossoms through a shared sense of belonging and inclusivity. The mutual sensitivity and kindness fostered at SECMOL are a gift for the soul.

Unlike actors who render roles of sanctimonious, valiant heroes on the Indian silver screen while perpetuating a culture of mass machismo and ignorance, Sonam Wangchuk embodies a real-life knight. This self-assured knight speaks clearly: “Please call me Sonam,” he insists, asking after me and engaging with me attentively. Through my experiences at SECMOL, the absence of superfluousness offered a glimpse into Wangchuk’s mindset, revealing the profound intensity of the truth he lives by. As we discussed our shared vision for humanity, it became conspicuous that Sonam possesses a light-hearted yet commanding presence, characterised by trust, support, and a strong sense of purpose. With an invaluable armour of intellect, humanity, and intention, this knight, Sonam Wangchuk, redefines the true value of life, towering over a counterfeit battalion, rightfully residing in India’s crest—Ladakh.

In the stark landscape of Ladakh, I found myself reflecting on my life’s journey, sifting through myriad thoughts: my animal family has affirmed my sensitive nature; my dedicated teachers at school nurtured my appreciation for simple living and for high-minded individuals like Sonam Wangchuk; and the austere foundation that has ultimately supported me through life’s wreckage. These investments instil in me a deep sense of obligation to pay it forward for children. Empowered by this realisation, I move forward with unwavering resolve.

Over the days, as the car crawled up the mountain roads with the windows fully down, I was treated to a surreal tapestry of forms and colours—from a mélange of stupas to large flocks of mountain goats—reminding me of the unpredictability of what lies around each bend. This uncertainty inherent in life fosters my growth. In the spirit of those who tread the road less travelled, we who are inspired must continue to venture into territories that promise depth and richness for all of humanity.

Animal rights campaigner, IN