HEERA ALAYA

ARTERIES

“The roles must be distinct, but everyone must feel part of a team
where every piece, even the smallest, is fundamental.”

ROSSELLA BUONAMICI
Pasticceria owner, IT

March 8th, 2023

Heera Alaya: You have a beautiful name. What does Rossella mean?

Rossella Buonamici: Thank you. Rossella translates to Scarlett. My father loved the film Gone with the Wind and named me after Scarlett O’Hara.

How interesting!

[I follow Rossella to the rear end of her pasticceria Buonamici.]

There is a rich history in this room. [Pointing to a photograph] This is my grandfather, and next to him is my 85-year-old father, who, before the COVID pandemic, came to the shop every morning at 9:00 am.

[Rossella continues pointing to the photograph, introducing the others] My brother, my cousin. I don’t recognise the last person.

When was this photograph taken?

This photo was taken in 1949 [73 years ago].

[Rossella walks towards another photograph, pointing] Here is my sister preparing a traditional cake—mille-feuille, and in this photo, you can see my mother, sister, and me. And this photo is of my dog and my father receiving a premio.

Award?

[Rosella calls out to her staff in front of her pasticceria: “Cos’è il premio?” to which they shout back, confirming: “Award.”

[Looking at the photograph] Yes, this award was given to my father for owning this pasticceria for 70 years. But in 1966, my father closed the shop.

Did you have to shut down the pasticceria because of the flooding of the Arno River [Tuscany, Italy] in 1966?

Sì [Yes]. The flooding caused extensive damage and destroyed everything.

Yours is a story of passion; it’s also about faith, fede.

Sì. Sì. All of Florence started to rebuild.

What does it take to preserve the tradition of baking and bakeries in an era where increasingly artisanal products are commercialised?

It requires a deep passion for the product, love for our culinary tradition and the ability to share that with people. Fortunately, in recent years, people have rediscovered the importance of consuming high-quality products.

I’ve noticed that people come in for their morning coffee and pastry. Are your early-morning patrons mostly locals or tourists?

Primarily locals. While many enjoy coffee at home, the culture in Florence is to savour a coffee and pastry at the pasticceria. We typically drink short coffee two to three times a day.

You, too [drink two to three cups of coffee]?

Sì.

Do you add milk to your coffee?

Only sometimes, a little bit.

Do you eat a lot of dolce [sweets]?

[Laughs] Sì.

What time do you arrive at the pasticceria?

I arrive here [pasticceria] at 7:30 am.

Do you have pastry chefs on staff?

Yes, our pastry chefs arrive at 4:00 am to make fresh pastries, biscotti and sandwiches, using recipes passed down from my grandfather and father.

And what about Tiziana, your assistant?

Tiziana arrives at 7:00 am and starts setting up all the fresh goods.

Are you open throughout the week?

Yes, seven days a week.

Rossella, when do you take a break?

I take a break on Mondays, but I occasionally stop by the pasticceria to handle accounting tasks.

Your pasticceria is beautifully appointed.

We [Rosella’s pastry shop] have been in the exact location since we first opened. We studied what the customers see upon entering—pastries, biscuits, sandwiches, juices and coffee. This observation gave us the idea to make our presentation beautiful.

How do you keep the space clean, especially with a steady stream of customers?

For me, cleanliness is paramount. We clean as we go throughout the day. When there are fewer customers, we do a thorough cleaning around 2:00 pm and conduct a complete cleanup after we close for the day.

Who is the young girl with short hair?

Valentina.

Valentina, what a lovely name!

She diligently cleans while taking orders; it’s a pleasure to see someone take pride in their work.

Valentina is good; she has been with me for three years.

And Tiziana, for how long have you known her?

I have known Tiziana for 20 years. Tiziana’s father is a friend of my father.

To run a successful business, you need the right people.  I can sense the camaraderie you have cultivated.

Yes. We are fortunate to have each other.

I couldn’t tell the owner apart from the employees, which is a beautiful attribute. How do you instil ownership, and how is the dignity of labour valued in your bakery and in Florence?

We want and are committed to ensuring that the atmosphere inside the pastry shop is familiar. The roles must be distinct, but everyone must feel part of a team where every piece, even the smallest, is fundamental.

What are the top five ingredients you source to make your products?

We prioritise high-quality flours, without additives, of Italian origin: Bronte pistachio PDO [Protected designation of origin]; Piedmont Hazelnut PGI [Protected geographical indication]; pure Bourbon Vanilla paste; and 70% cocoa chocolate.

What is your favourite pastry from your pasticceria?

The cream croissant is absolutely the best pastry!

Could you suggest a coffee-and-pastry combination for someone visiting Florence for the first time?

I recommend pairing a cappuccino with rice pudding, a traditional Florentine breakfast dish, or a shortcrust pastry tart filled with cream and rice.

Will others eventually join you in your business?

There is always plenty of work to be done. My sister, Patrizia, lives in Rome with her children and visits Florence twice a month to help me.

How did the Covid pandemic impact your pasticceria business?

We had to close the pasticceria for two months. It was a challenging time that lasted for two years.

Florence is home to many bakeries offering quality products. What sets yours apart?

Even in the face of great difficulties, such as COVID-19, we chose to enhance our product quality. Fortunately, the loyalty of our regular customers and the excellent feedback from passing customers proves our standard.

Running your flavourful pasticceria involves many aspects—expertise, finances, quality ingredients, among others. What makes your pasticceria particularly exceptional is that your pastries and coffee are paired with outstanding hospitality and genuine warmth.

[Rosella smiles, her eyes lighting up] Grazie. Grazie.

Learn more about Rossella Buonamici and Buonamici pasticceria, Florence, Italy.

Documentary Filmmaker, USA